2019
Thurday 7 March
Home after a long journey but a wonderful holiday. Each of the three countries I visited were very different, sadly there was not a lot of love lost between the residents of each country. The only thing they have in common is the fear of the Chinese taking them over.
They have all endured hard times at the hands of different nations, and in the case of Cambodia, Pol Pot and the Kmer Rouge. They are still suffering from these skirmishes with numerous landmines and infected land from Agent Orange. Landmines still kill and the chemicals in the soil have caused infertility and birth defects; the life expectancy in Cambodia and Laos is only in the 60’s.
The good things – beautiful temples, beautiful flowers, fantastic food with lovely fresh ingredients. Favourite place would have to be Hoi An and spending an evening in the old town watching all the lantern laden boats going up and down the river.
Tuesday 5 March
This morning we visited Wat Ounalom and were blessed by the monk for our journey home!
Then to the National Museum of Cambodia which had some amazing statuary and a very peaceful courtyard garden in the centre.
Final stop was the Central Market for last minute shopping before our flights this evening, first stop Saigon then Heathrow
Monday 4 March
Our first visit this morning was reached by cyclo which was a little hair raising in the morning traffic. The driver was really happy to have me as his passenger.
Our first stop was the Royal Palace a beautiful complex of buildings with gilded pitched roofs, built in the 19th century in traditional khmer style. It is the official residence of the reigning monarch, King Sihamoni
Our next stop was to the silver pagoda, so called because of its solid silver floor. Inside there are hundreds of Buddha, many of them solid silver encrusted with stones. The two main Buddha are a gold Buddha with many large diamonds and an emerald Buddha made from one huge stone. Outside are stupas containing the ashes of former kings.
Our next stop was more sombre when we visited the killing fields of Choeung Ek and afterwards the Genocide museum which was the former Tuoi Sleng Prison (S-21). Some 17,000 men, women and children were killed at Choeung Ek, one of many sites throughout the country and S-21 was the home of brutal torture. Almost half the population of Cambodia was killed by Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. Only pictures of the memorials, the other images were too sad.
Choeung Ek
Tuoi Sleng Prison
In the evening we had a boat ride along the Mekong to see the sunset. A Mekong Punch seemed the appropriate cocktail.
Sunday 3 March
We left the hotel quite early and took a very bumpy ride to the edges of Lake Tonle Sap, the largest freshwater lake in southeast Asia. As it is now the dry season the lake covers only 965 sq miles but during the monsoon swells to 4,633 sq miles. Our ride there was interesting and we took a boat to visit one of the many floating villages
In the evening we went to the Foreign Correspondents’ Club with lovely views over the river
Saturday 2 March
Today we visited Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument in the world, built during the 12th century. The complex is built inside a huge moat and has intricate carvings on the walls of the temples
In the afternoon visited Banteay Srei, which was a beautiful much smaller temple richly decorated and discovered in 1914 by the French
And afterwards the temple Banteay Samre.
In the evening walked from the hotel down to the night market, it was very busy around there and Pub Street.
Friday 1 March
Now in Siem Reap, Cambodia and a day ahead of visiting temples, this time by tuk tuk!
Enjoyed the tuk tuk ride and the breeze that cooled the very hot air
Our first temple was Angkor Thom, which means great city in khmer and founded by King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century
Climbed up the monument to bump into friends from home and had a rather artistic photo taken
More pictures of Angkor Thom, The Bayon, Elephant Terrace, terrace of the Leper king.
In the afternoon we visited Ta Prohm, a temple smothered by the roots of giant banyan trees, more famous to some as the backdrop for the film Tomb Raider.
Spot the dinosaur in the above!
On the way back we visited an organisation which trains people in stone masonry, wood carving, weaving etc.
Just in time for a quick dip in the pool before we went out to dinner and a show of Apsara dance.
Thursday 28 February
Morning temple visit then a climb up the 328 steps of Mount Phou Si with views of the city and rivers, with a further temple at the top. Then the walk down! Final visit was to the Ethnology Centre before going to the airport and our flight to Cambodia
Wednesday 27 February
This morning we took a trip to Kuangsi waterfall but first we stopped at the local market where you could buy anything from a pair of second hand shoes to a kilo of tripe.
Some of the lovely fresh vegetables on sale in the market
We stopped at a couple of local villages on the way. The children were adorable.
We climbed up a mountain and down the other side, it was very hard work. The falls were beautiful. They have a sun bear sanctuary at the falls and try to protect the species
After the falls we visited another local village and their temple then back to the pool for a quick swim
In the evening we returned to the Royal Palace and a ballet performance, but not ballet as we know it!
Tuesday 26 February
Started the morning at the Royal Palace complex with the statue of King Sisavang Vong outside. Inside the palace was an impressive throne and some interesting gifts from various countries. A beautiful lily pond outside and a selection of the king’s old cars donated by the French and Americans
We then took a sail down the Mekong River, stopping for lunch, to visit some caves and a couple of villages. Spotted the local cattle on the river banks and a couple of elephants. A lovely relaxing sail.
Late afternoon sun on the Mekong
Got back to the hotel to see the sun go down
Monday 25 February
Left the hotel in Hanoi waving to the media as we left, strangely they were not in the least bit interested.
Flew to Luang Prabang in Laos which nestles on the banks of the Mekong. Once again the weather is hot not like Hanoi over the last couple of days.
The hotel complex is beautiful with a very tempting swimming pool and glorious gardens.
We left the hotel to visit two Wats or temples, the second Wat Xieng Thong was a complex of beautiful buildings with mosaics and gold leaf in abundance
We then had a traditional Baci ceremony in a local house which involved tying strings around the visitors wrists, it is supposed to concentrate the spiritual forces to help with the next part of their life. This was followed by traditional dancing and music.
Sunday 24 February
Busy day in and around Hanoi. Our first stop was at the Temple of Literature which dates back to 1070 during the Ly Dynasty. It was founded to honour Confucius
Then onto the One Pillar Pagoda which stands on a lotus pond
Our visit went onto Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum. An austere place surrounded by the military.
Then onto Ho Chi Minh’s presidential palace area. This is where Trump and Jong-un will be meeting in a few days time. Quite pleased we are heading out of Hanoi tomorrow as things are already being closed down and the security services are taking over the 17th floor and upwards in the hotel.
Also on this site is Ho Chi Minh’s house and stilt house and his cars. He lived relatively simply and never married although our guide suggested that on his travels he had lady friends
We then travelled west of the city to the museum of ethnology which has displays of the country’s many different ethnic groups.
Outside the main museum building are various examples of ethic houses
Going back to the city we walked through the old quarter, known for its 36 streets, each street being known for one particular speciality
Having successfully negotiated our way through the old quarter (no mean task) we went to the water puppet theatre. Something which is believed to date back almost 1000 years. A large tank is filled with water and the puppeteers stand waist deep and hidden from view. Live singers and musicians and fire breathing puppet dragons!
Quick photo shoot over Hoan Kiem Lake and the Thap Rua or turtle tower and the Sunbeam Bridge
In case you thought the food might not be up to scratch – a selection of tonight’s dinner!
Saturday 23 February.
Got up early this morning to partake in some tai chi on the top deck, then visited a beach on Dao Titop and walked half way up a hill to take in the view. I was certainly ready for breakfast on our return to the boat
Left the boat in Halong City and drove back to Hanoi, which is obviously preparing for Mr Trump’s visit! Visited the Hoa Lo Prison museum where the French incarcerated and tortured Vietnamese prisoners and was later used to hold downed American pilots including Senator John McCain.
Then onto the Vietnamese Women’s Museum which showed how hard life could be for the poor but also had some lovely clothing exhibits
Friday 22 February
Checked into my cabin on the boat
Had a lovely lunch on board the boat sailing around the bay, unfortunately the weather was cloudy so not seen at its best. Halong Bay is made up of 2000 pinnacle shaped limestone and dolomite outcrops.
We then visited Hang Sung Sot Caves, known locally as surprise caves, will leave you to work out what the surprise is!
Today we sail around Halong Bay. This is the view from the hotel’s pool
Thursday 21 February
Left lovely Hoi An and flew to Hanoi, then drove to Hai Phong for lunch and a walk around local markets and Opera House.
Some of the fabulous fruit
Fish, herbs, eggs of all descriptions and other strange things
Street food
The fabulous flower market
The Opera House and square
Back to the hotel from dinner out and view from the bedroom
Wednesday 20 February
Today we visited the My Son ruins of the Champa Kingdom, a religious centre between the 4th and 13th centuries. My Son was rediscovered by French archaeologists in the late 1890’s. Traces of around 70 temples can be found, only about 20 in good condition. Sadly the United States bombed this site during the war destroying groups of buildings and the craters still remain.
Whilst there we were treated to some local dancing in the theatre
We then walked through the pottery village and took a boat ride on the Thu Bon River back to Hoi An old town and a late lunch with a quick dip in the pool before the sun went down
Tuesday 19 February
Left Hue this morning towards Danang, over the Hai Van Pass and passing the Lang Co lagoon where the fishermen grow oysters on old tyres. With the mist over the lagoon it was very atmospheric
Then onto Danang and the museum of Cham Sculpture. The Cham Empire existed in Vietnam for many years and the artifacts on display are from the 5th to 15th centuries.
The Dragon Bridge at Danang
We passed by Marble Mountain and the marble factory
to Hoi An and a walking tour of the old quarter visiting the old Assembly Hall, old merchants house and the Japanese covered bridge.
The old town was very pretty
The Japanese Covered Bridge
Went back to the old town for dinner and drinks. It was fabulous with all the lanterns lit and boats going up and down the river with their multicoloured lanterns lit.
Monday 18 February
Today we sailed down the Perfume River to visit Thien Mu Pagoda on the northwest bank of the river. Thien Mu or Heavenly Lady is an iconic symbol of Hue.
Next stop was Hue Citadel: Imperial Palace, a world heritage site established by Emperor Gia Long in 1805. It is a huge fortress with wonderful rooms and gardens.
Final stop of the day was the tomb of Khai Dinh the penultimate Nguyen Emperor and the last to be buried in a royal tomb in Hue. The temple was situated on a steep site with beautiful views over the countryside.
This evening we visited a local village and enjoyed watching the sun going down over the paddy fields and local cemetery. Then onto the temple watched over by the lady Budha
Later we visited a local family where we had a wonderful meal and a herbal foot bath!
Sunday 17 February
Left Saigon this morning, a vibrant and colourful city of old and new buildings and a mix of cultures and religions
Arrived in Hue and visited the tomb of Tu Doc set on a pine forested hill. Lovely gardens and frangipani trees.
Good night out in a busy town
Saturday 16 February
A scenic drive through the Mekong Delta, stopping at the Vinh Trang Pagoda and a very happy Buddha!
We took a boat to one of the islands on the Delta and walked through the village enjoying some tropical fruits and local drink made from honey, fresh kumquat and jasmine tea. The fruit trees and flowers were beautiful but not so keen on the size of the spiders
We left by small boats along the canal being reminded to keep our hands out of the water in case of crocodiles!
Then onto lunch which included elephant ear fish and dinosaur eggs (sticky rice). It was delicious – honest.
Friday 15 February
Visited the Cu Chi tunnel network which have been used by the Vietnamese for centuries during the various wars, it is said that they played a major role in defeating the American soldiers.
Some of the ingenious but deadly booby traps set around the tunnels.
Plucked up courage to go down one of the tunnels which has been widened for the tourists!
In the evening we enjoyed a dinner cruise on the Saigon river. The food and entertainment were really good.
The lights of other boats and the buildings were very colourful
Thursday 14 February
Arrived in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) and took a tour to the Jade Emperor Pagoda, Reunification Palace, General Post Office and Notre Dame Cathedral. The Post Office was designed by Gustave Eiffel (of Tower fame). It seems like a bustling and vibrant city. Just in time for the unicorn dance at the pagoda.
