South Africa/Zimbabwe/Botswana

Monday 19 February

The end of another wonderful holiday with lots of happy memories. Last breakfast in Zimbabwe overlooking this fantastic view and a warm goodbye from the gatekeeper.

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I have visited some wonderful places and met some fantastic people. Outstanding points would have to be Cape Town and the trips we made from there. From our hotel I was able to walk to the waterfront at night completely safely, although I appreciate there are some areas that are not so safe.

Rovos Rail was a treat and we were looked after like royalty, perhaps at times too much!

Victoria Falls and the day at Chobe in Botswana were wonderful.

Learning more of the history of South Africa was fascinating from the Boers, Zulu wars through to aparteid and the present day with a new president.

Of course, the animals stole the show and the birds were an added bonus from Goliath herons to little bee eaters, the colours and varieties were a joy to watch.

Sadly no lions, maybe I will have to come back?

Sunday 18 February

Last full day in this beautiful part of the world and we took a drive across the border into Botswana. Our day was centred around the Chobe National Park and our first activity was a game drive through the parkland seeing some wonderful animals and birds.

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We had lunch at the Chobe Marina Lodge, a beautiful hotel on the Chobe river which forms the boundary between Botswana and Namibia.

 

Following lunch we cruised down the river and saw even more animals.

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Saturday 17 February

Vic Falls – Exciting day today when we walked the extent of the falls 1.5 km. Sun and rain, everyone was absolutely drenched by the time we had finished from rain and spray.

 

 

 

 

Watched someone bungee jump from the bridge over the river.

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Then back to the hotel to watch the feeding of the vultutes. Quite remarkable, they eat everything including the bones. Three maribou storks were hanging around to get any leftovers.

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Then back to the Falls, this time in a helicopter.

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Very nice evening meal in the hotel restaurant watching the sun go down and the zebras grazing in the distance

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Friday 16 February

Early start  from Jo’berg to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Staying at the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge which is situated in the middle of a national park with a watering hole visible from the hotel’s watering hole! Lovely to watch the amimals coming down to drink. The hotel consists of low level lodges built of teak with thatched rooves. Guests are advised not to leave their balcony doors unlocked as the baboons can open the doors and will ransack your room.

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Hotel reception

 

 

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Opened my balcony door to find these two

 

 

Left the hotel for a sunset cruise on the Zambezi river which turned out to be quite eventful when the heavens opened and practically flooded the boat! We did enjoy watching the hippos in the rain.

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In the evening we all went to the Boma to enjoy the tastes and sounds of Africa. The tastes included crocodile tail, warthog stew, impala and steak for those less adventurous. The sounds included African drums which we were all encouraged to play.

 

 

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Thursday 15 February

Started the day with a visit to the Ann van Dyk Cheetah Centre which has a breeding programme for captive king cheetahs and other endangered species.

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Had great fun feeding the wild dogs who circled the jeep making extraordinary noises.

 

 

Then onto the Voortrekker Monument and museum built to commemorate the Afrikaner pioneers who trekked from the Cape in 1830 to escape British domination. The building contains a cenotaph which is hit by a beam of sunlight at noon on 16 December, the date of the Battle of Blood River.

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Then onto visit ex President Paul Kruger’s house, famous now for the Kruger National Park and Krugerand.

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Next stop was the Union Building, built on an imposing hill site overlooking Pretoria. The statue of Nelson Mandela stands at 9m high, is made of bronze and weighs 3.5 tons. An auspicious time to visit as President Zuma resigned yesterday and Cyril Ramaphosa was signed in today.

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On the way back to the hotel drove past Melrose House, famous for being the home of Lord Kitchener during the South Africa war.

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Wednesday 14 February

Last breakfast and lunch on the train and we arrived at Rovos Rail’s private station in Pretoria.

 

 

The owner of the railway was at our destination to welcome us and all the ladies received a red rose.

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Arrived at Irene Country Lodge in Irene just outside Pretoria

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Tuesday 13 February

An early start to Nambiti Game Reserve at Elandslaagte where the British and Boer forces clashed in 1899 and is now a war grave site.

Unfortunately the weather was not so good and we all tried to keep dry and free of mud, but all worth it as we saw black rhino, zebra, hippos, giraffe as well as some more wonderful birds

 

 

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The birds included Swainsons spur fowl, Cape long claw with a dragon fly in his mouth, Blacksmith Lapwing, Amur falcon, secretarybird, long tailed widow and helmeted guinea fowl.

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Back to the train for breakfast, then lunch and out again in the afternoon  to visit Spion Kop Lodge and a lecture by the owner Raymond Heron who explained about the history of the country and especially the British and South African battles. One of the bloodiest battles was fought on Spion Kop in 1900.  Raymond bought everything to life made more memorable as we looked from the lodge to Spion Kop

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Spion Kop

 

 

A great dinner back on the train with cocktails in the bar afterwards and outside on the observation deck.

 

 

Monday 12 February

Left Durban to go on Rovos Rail to Pretoria, a two and half day journey on what they advertise as the “most luxurious train in the world”. Pictutes of my suite and public areas.

 

 

 

 

Our first stop after a four course luncheon was to Ardmore Ceramics, a pottery employing locals who produce amazing items full of colour including many of the local animals. They also have a stable full of show horses.

 

 

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Sunday 11 February

A free day in Durban and just been for a long walk in the rain, still hot though. Tomorrow we take the safari train to Pretoria.

Pretoria is the administrative capital of S.A. and Cape Town the legislative capital. There are 11 official languages – English, Afrikaans and 9 African languages some of which are very difficult to get your tongue around as some letters of the alphabet are clicks.

Although I felt safe walking around the waterfront to the hotel in Cape Town and in Knysna, Durban has a different feel and have not ventured out at night. Everyone has electric fencing and razor wire!

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Some of the birds so far encountered, African spoonbill, Egyptian goose, Hadeba ibis and red bishop.

Saturday 10 February

Now in Durban the capital of KwaZulu-Natal. A multi cultural city with a large Asian population. The morning was spent touring the city including the Playhouse, City Hall, Moses Mabhiba Stadium

 

 

 

 

Then onto the Durban Botanic Gardens, full of beautiful flowers and birds.

 

 

A ranger was in the gardens explaining all about the local wildlife. The kids couldn’t wait to have their photos taken with the snake.

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Then walked from uShaka Marine World along the promenade back to the hotel about 3km. Warm but a lovely breeze from the ocean. Some wonderful Zulu dancers.

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Friday 9 February

Left Knysna and drove through Plettenberg Bay and further along the Garden Route passing over a number of spectacular gorges

 

 

Then onto Tsitsikamma which is the San word for “place of abundant waters” and Storms River Mouth. It is a national park with mountain scenery, forests, walking trails and stunning views.

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Then onto Port Elizabeth and our flight to Durban where we arrived early evening. Not a bad view of the Indian Ocean from my bedroom.

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Thursday 8 February

Photo stop looking over Wilderness Bay. The heat haze warned us of a hot day. Then a drive through the Outeniqua pass and some amazing scenery

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We then travelled through the Little Karoo to Oudtdhoorn at the foot of the Swartsberg Mountains and to the ostrich farm, where we enjoyed seeing all the beautiful ostriches and then enjoyed a barbecue (the ostrich steaks were delicious)!! The temperature was now in the 40’s.

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From the ostrich farm we went to the Cango Caves, with amazing stalactites and stalagmites. It is believed that the site was occupied as early as 80,000 years ago. Our guide sang some traditional African songs and the national anthem and the acoustics of the cave made them so good.

 

 

Enjoyed dinner at a restaurant serving traditional South African food.

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Wednesday 7 February

Leisurely day today with a cruise around the lagoon at Knysna. A lovely shelteted bay leading up to the Knysna Heads and the Indian Ocean

We were to have walked around the Featherbed Nature Reserve but the area was dessimated by fires last summer and has not yet recovered

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Then a walk around the waterfront, a much smaller version than Cape Town but with lots of shops, bars and restaurants and a very nice marina.

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Excellent evening having drinks and nibbles with travelling companions.

Tuesday 6 February

Left Cape Town this morning and travelled north east to Worcester, over the mountain pass with great scenery, although there was a little fog which made it very atmospheric.

 

 

Then onto Swellendam, the third oldest town in South Africa. A very pretty church and some lovely thatched Dutch style houses.

 

 

 

 

From there to Mossel Bay and the beginning of the Garden Route. In Mossel Bay we visited the museum where there is a replica of the boat of Bartolomeu Dias, who paved the way for the eventual discovery of the sea route to India.

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In the museum gardens is the Post Office Tree where 16th century seafarers left messages for each other

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The Post Office Tree
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Mossel Bay

Monday 5 February

So, last night in Cape Town, very sad, I just love it here. Had my most expensive meal yet, a seafood platter, sparkling water and the biggest glass of red wine you have seen (although wherever you go the glasses of red wine are practically half a bottle full.)  Table Mountain in the background.

Then went on the wheel just as the sun was going down

 

 

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Today a boat ride over to Robben Island, home to Nelson Mandela for 18 years. Rob means seal in Dutch as this was originally a seal colony and over the years it has housed a lunatic asylum, leper colony and penal settlement. The prisoners had to work for 8 hours a day in the lime quarry. The cave on the second photograph was used as the dining room, toilet and for political discussions.

 

 

The island now has around 200 inhabitants, people who work there, ex political prisoners and their families.

Our guide around the jail was Sparks, himself a former political prisoner and he explained to us the regime of the jail. Each political prisoner was allowed to receive one letter every six months but these were so heavily censored they might only end up with the address and salutation and one visit every year!

 

 

Nelson Mandela’s cell

 

 

Photographs from around the jail

 

 

Photographs from around the island including a cape wagtail and a reedbuck deer behind the perimeter fence.

 

 

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Sunday 4 February

A day in the wine region but just a quick stop to take a picture of Table Mountain from across the bay.

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Next stop Paarl and the jail where Nelson Mandela was released from prison.

 

 


The Dutch settlers were not very good at making wine and success did not happen until the French Hugenots arrived. Paarl is the birthplace of the Afrikaans language. From Paarl to the very pretty town of Franschhoek, with many traditional thatched houses with the central Dutch gables.

 

 

Then for some wine tasting at the Boschendal Winery.

 

 

The final stop of the day was in another very pretty town, Stellenbosch. The second oldest town in South Africa.

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Thursday 1 Feb

Long journey but here I am, just writing this up sat round the pool. However, as you may have seen on tv Cape Town is suffering from a drought, so the pool is only open a limited time and showers are timed!

I was sat next to a very nice African gentleman on the flight who invited me to Namibia – he was the Permanent Secretary in the Ministry of Mines. I didn’t ask what sort of mines but if they are diamond mines it might be worth a visit!

Spent an enjoyable afternoon on tbe V and A waterfront. It is really nice and reminded me a little of Darling Harbour in Sydney. All sorts of shops, boutiques, bars and restaurants. Some pictures taken down there with the obligatory Table Mountain.

 

 

Great night, drinks with all the group then back down to the waterfront with new friends Carol and Brian and Penny amd Tim . Great food, great wine and great company.

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Busy day in and around Cape Town. First visit was to an area called Bo-Kaap (above Cape Town), where the Malays were brought by the Dutch East India Company. The houses are all painted in bright colours. Even the mosque is known locally as the peppermint mosque.

 

 

Then onto the Castle of Good Hope which is South Africa’s oldest structure having been built between 1666 and 1679. Interesting history it now houses a gallery, museum, barracks for the soldiers and the longest table I have ever seen!

 

 

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After a short walk we visited the Natural History Museum, where there was a wonderful exhibition of wildlife photographs and the skeleton of a blue whale

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As the cloud had lifted from Table Mountain we took the cable car to the top. Table Mountain is part of the Cape Peninsula mountain chain which also consists of Devil’s Peak, Lion’s Head and 12 Apostles.

 

 

Final stop of the day was Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden. Beautiful gardens in the shadow of the mountain, especially good was the Boomslang (tree snake) a tree canopy walkway.

 

 

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Saturday 3 February

Another busy day, down the coast through Camps Bay to Houts Bay where we took a boat to see the seals.

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Camps Bay

 

 

From Houts Bay we drove along Chapman’s Peak Drive, certainly comparable if not better than the Amalfi Coast Road in Italy or the Great Ocean Road in Australia – not sure I have ever seen such blue sea.

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Chapman’s Peak

 

 

Then through Noordhoek to Simon’s Town in False Bay, currently where the S.A  navy is based but previously where the British Royal Navy where based. The statue is of Able Seaman Just Nuisance, a great dane, who was the mascot of the British navy.

 

 

Then onto Boulders Penguin Colony of over 2000 African penguins

 

 

We had a lovely lunch at the Blue Marlin restaurant which is the Cape areas oldest seafood restaurant. Fish soup followed by calamari and hake. Last visit of the day was to Cape Point/Cape of Good Hope. We followed the coast road which is so beautiful.

 

 

Some of the wild animals on Cape Point